
Tuscan traditional dishes: Schiacciata alla Fiorentina
It is known that Tuscan cuisine is a “poor” cuisine made of
simple ingredients, but very tasty nonetheless and much appreciated worldwide.
The typical Tuscan dishes are linked to the rural tradition and the products
that come from the countryside, most of them have a story to tell.
The desserts served during the carnival period in Florence and the rest of
Tuscany are no exception, one above all is the Schiacciata alla Fiorentina. The
name says it all, it is a flat cake, in appearance similar to the schiacciata
bread and it is a product that can only be found in Florence.
Schiacciata alla Fiorentina was originally a sweet bread made with lard instead
of butter, served only on Shrove Tuesday. In more recent times it has
traditionally been available in pastry shops from January to February, but
today some pastry shops produce this sweet schiacciata all year round, while
others have begun to extend its production until late spring.
Already Pellegrino Artusi, a gastronomic writer of the 1700s, who wrote the
manual entitled “Science in the kitchen and the art of eating well”, mentioned
this dessert in his book with the name of "stiacciata unta" (oily and
fat flat bread).
It was also known amond the Florentines as "Stiacciata delle Murate"
because it was produced by the nuns of the Murate monastery in Via Ghibellina.
The name sticked even when the monastery closed and became a prison. It is said
that the last meal of those condemned to death included this dessert.
Schiacciata alla Fiorentina is a soft, not very sweet, orange-flavoured cake.
Even if it is a leavened cake, it should never be higher than 3 cm, otherwise
it wouldn’t be a “schiacciata”! It is sprinkled with powdered sugar and often
decorated with bitter cocoa powder using a stencil shaped like the lily, symbol
of the city of Florence.
A modern variation for the more gluttons of us, wants it stuffed with whipped
cream, but the purists do not like this version very much.
Florence is famous for its barely-sweet delicacies, like the Pan di Ramerino or
the renown Castagnaccio, so adding a lush, sugary cream to the Schiacciata alla
Fiorentina or any of these other treats seems like a severe betrayal of
tradition.
Don’t be fooled though: little sugar does not equate to little flavor. We can
assure you that uif you bring home a whole Schiacciata
alla Fiorentina from one of the best pastry shops in Florence, it won’t
last for long, being so light and not excessively sweet you will soon find
yourself eating the last bite!
The Pasticceria da Giorgio probably
makes the best Schiacciata alla Firorentina in Florence, it is a legend among
the Florentines but it might be out of reach for most. In a more central area
however, we can recommend the pastry shop Nencioni
in via Pietrapiana, but truth is, in Florence there are so many good pastry
shops that you can't go wrong with any of the most renowned ones.
We don’t suggest to attempt baking this delicacy at home, it’s a waste of time.
Many Florentines do, but they usually use a simplified version of the original recipe
- which is a very secret one - and they know from the starts it’s not going to
compare to the real deal. Perhaps it’s just that the homemade version lacks the
expert hand of the professional bakers, or it might be the many leavening
stages it requires that makes it a high-failure rate recipe. We don’t really know why it is so difficult
to reproduce its authentic flavor at home, but for some reason it never tastes
right!
So we regret to inform you that you’ll have no other choice but to go to your trusted
pastry shop in Florence to to grab a piece of this soft, heavenly cake. But
believe us, it’s going to be worth it!