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August: Chiuso per Ferie
Visiting Florence in August has its
downsides. Around the second week of the month, you will find yourselves
walking the almost deserted city streets looking for a bar, restaurant or
grocery shop that does not display the sign "CHIUSO PER FERIE" (closed for the holidays).
That’s because most Florentines - most Italians, really - will be on vacation
in this period.
The city empties, with the exception of the historical center, where shops
remain mostly open.
The day that sees the more people fleeing from the cities to got to the seaside,
August 15th: Ferragosto. It is a national holiday in Italy, originally founded
by Roman Emperor Augustus.
Ferragosto comes from the Latin feriae
Augusti (rest of Augustus), in honor of Augustus, the first Roman emperor, from which also the August month
takes its name.
At the time, this was a period of well deserved rest and celebration, after the
great efforts of the agricultural working season.
Nowaways, the celebrations of Ferragosto generally involve a trip to the
seaside and, of course, a feast! People tend to organize lunche dates with
family and friends or celebrate with an elegant dinner. However, the closure of
the shops, as we have mentioned, is not just on August 15th, it lasts almost the
whole month.
What helped to strenghten this tradition of the August holiday trips, were
certainly the “Ferragosto popular trains”,
established by the Fascist regime, that encouraged people to travel for a
couple of days in this period on the new regional trains, at highly discounted
prices. Then, following the economic boom of the 60s, families were able to
take the time to go on longer vacations, and even though the vacation length
has shortened to an average of 2 weeks, this traditional summer exodus still
affects the Italian cities as today.
Those who cannot afford to travel the world, will at least head to the nearest
seaside town and find some relax at the beach. Even after the economic crisis brought
about by the COVID pandemic, vacations remain sacred here.
The Bel Paese still has one of the
longest school breaks in Europe, from June to the beginning of September.
In the past it lasted even until October.
To the tourists that remain surprised by the amount of shops closed in August,
we can only say to enjoy the crowdless city as long as they can. That’s what
the Florentines do, particularly aooreciate the less traficated avenues at this
time of the year.